Traveling through China, from Beijing—the commanding capital of a rising global powerhouse—to the Great Wall, reveals a nation where ancient history meets relentless modernization. This journey explores the country’s high-speed rail, towering ghost cities, and the bold ambitions driving its future.
Traveling through China without local knowledge can feel like trying to read a book in a language you don’t understand—every page filled with unfamiliar symbols, customs, and unspoken rules. Fortunately, we had a guide. Our friend Taso, who had been living in Shanghai for for work, was our translator, navigator, and cultural bridge. Without him, we would have been lost in the sheer scale and complexity of this country.
A Bullet Train Through Boomtowns and Empty Towers
Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station was a behemoth—vast, efficient, and packed with people moving at a pace that matched the city’s relentless energy. Having Taso with us made all the difference. He knew exactly how the rail system worked, from booking tickets to navigating security checks, which felt more like an airport than a train station.
Boarding the bullet train, we settled into spacious seats—far more comfortable than anything an airline economy class could offer. The train slipped out of the station, quickly hitting 350 km/h, smooth and nearly silent. Shanghai’s skyline faded behind us, replaced by a landscape of farmland, industrial zones, and the most striking feature of all—massive, newly built city blocks, often eerily empty.
These developments, clusters of high-rise apartment towers arranged in identical rows, were a clear sign of China’s breakneck expansion. Some were fully inhabited, others still under construction, and some sat completely vacant—ghost cities waiting for a future that may or may not come. Our friend explained that while China has poured billions into urban development, demand doesn’t always keep up with supply. Entire districts are built on speculation, standing as both a symbol of ambition and a reminder that even in a centrally planned economy, things don’t always go as expected.
Yet, where China overbuilds, the U.S. under-builds.
China’s Rail Revolution vs. America’s Stagnation
China’s high-speed rail network is the largest in the world, spanning over 40,000 km (25,000 miles). It connects cities at speeds that make flying nearly obsolete for domestic travel. France experienced a similar transformation when it introduced the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse). The Paris-Lyon route, once one of Europe’s busiest air corridors, saw air passenger numbers plummet as travelers chose the speed and comfort of the train instead. Today, France has even banned short-haul flights where a high-speed rail alternative exists, recognizing that trains are not only more efficient but also more environmentally friendly.
The U.S., on the other hand, remains stuck in the past. Imagine a high-speed train from Chicago to Nashville—a journey that today takes eight to ten hours by car or requires the hassle of airport security, boarding, and deplaning. A bullet train could make the trip in a few hours, with no baggage claim, no middle seats, and no turbulence. But the U.S. still clings to its car culture, underfunding rail and dismissing it as impractical, even as the rest of the world moves forward.
Taso, an avid train traveler in China, compared the high-speed trains to casual short-haul flights Americans take. Like many countries, China’s rail stations are conveniently located within city centers, eliminating the hassle of long airport transfers. The Chinese rail system operates seamlessly—no TSA, no hour-long security lines, just a luggage scanner, a quick ID check, and boarding. This system is meticulously designed for efficiency, and it truly works.
Queuing? What’s That?
One observation worth noting is the Chinese approach to queuing—if you expect the calm, orderly lines you’re used to in airports, train stations, hotel check-ins, or even escalators, prepare for a bit of a culture shock. Here, it’s more of a spirited race to be first, with little regard for boarding zones or the usual systems we take for granted. However, the train station was an exception; there, at least a semblance of order prevailed as passengers lined up, albeit with the occasional burst of hurried movement toward the platform..
Beijing: A Brief Encounter with the Capital
Arriving in Beijing felt like stepping into a different world—one where ancient history and modern ambition collided. With only 24 hours to explore, our friend guided us through the chaos with the ease of someone who had long since learned the ropes.
In contrast to the more relaxed atmosphere of Shanghai, Beijing’s security presence is both palpable and commanding. As the capital, the city is heavily guarded, with military and police forces visible at nearly every turn. In the subway stations, officers and uniformed soldiers stand motionless on short podiums, their white-gloved hands resting at their sides, eyes scanning the crowds with a sharp, unblinking focus. Beside them, riot gear is neatly arranged—clear shields, helmets, and odd black and aluminum briefcases that suggest a readiness for any situation. Unsure of the photography rules, I discreetly captured the scene, trying to preserve the surreal intensity of it all without drawing attention.
After checking into a Holiday Inn Express (yeah, look at me taking in the authentic culture), we followed his lead to Great Leap Brewing, a local craft beer spot where expats and a few locals alike gathered for American-style burgers and IPAs (the authentic theme continues). The bathroom walls were lined with vintage bicycle seats—placed exactly where a drunken patron might need to rest their head while relieving themselves. It was a reminder that even in the heart of China’s political and cultural capital, Western influences had carved out their own space.
First Rule of Tiananmen Square. Don’t Talk About Tiananmen Square.
Next came Tiananmen Square, a place as heavy with history as it was vast. Before we arrived, Taso gave us a quiet warning: avoid mentioning 1989. The protests and the government’s violent crackdown remain a censored topic, and even casual discussions can attract attention. As we stood in the square, surrounded by grand government buildings and watched over by Mao’s portrait, the weight of what wasn’t said felt just as present as the history that was openly displayed.
When we visited, it happened to be during the Mid-Autumn Festival, a week-long holiday that drew even larger crowds than usual. Tiananmen Square, always a focal point of activity, was teeming with people—tourists, locals, and uniformed personnel alike. While Beijing typically has a strong security presence, it was noticeably heightened during the holiday, with even more soldiers and officials stationed throughout the area. The sheer volume of people, combined with the watchful gaze of security forces, added an extra layer of intensity to an already imposing space.
What stood out most during our time in the square was the constant military presence. Soldiers and other figures lined up in neat rows, creating an almost surreal sense of order. In one formation, green-uniformed soldiers stood about 20 feet apart, while just 10 feet in front of them, another line of men in black suits and white dress shirts—no ties—lined up the same. The rows alternated between soldiers and these formally dressed individuals, all standing motionless, their eyes alert and unwavering.
As the sun began to set, we witnessed the flag-lowering ceremony—a meticulously choreographed ritual brimming with national pride. The ceremony began with the soldiers leading the procession, followed by the men in black suits, then a group in black quilted jackets, one of whom carried a black and aluminum briefcase. More black suits followed, and the procession ended with a final row of soldiers, all part of a well-rehearsed and strikingly disciplined display.
The Great Wall at Badaling and Odd Souvenirs
The next morning, we set out by taxi for Badaling, one of the most well-preserved and accessible sections of the Great Wall. The drive took us through rolling hills where the Wall appeared in the distance, sometimes a faint line across the ridges, sometimes looming high above the road.
Arriving in the parking lot, Taso haggled with the taxi driver to wait for us, and we wandered through the souvenir stalls near the entrance to the cable car. Amid the usual trinkets and keepsakes, I stumbled upon a curious collection of children’s toys—cars, planes, and even tanks, all meticulously crafted from bullet casings.
A tiny tank on wheels, fashioned entirely from spent ammunition, caught my eye. It felt like an oddly fitting, if unintentional, memento of Tiananmen Square. Of course, bringing such a souvenir through airport security would prove problematic. Sure enough, my bag was flagged, and my luggage inspected. But after a thorough examination, my unusual keepsake was cleared for travel, making it safely home with me.
Badaling is no “hidden gem”—it’s popular and often crowded, but the scale of the Wall absorbs the foot traffic. Climbing its steep stone steps, it was impossible not to feel the weight of history beneath my feet. Watchtowers stood in silent testament to centuries of defense, their stone walls weathered but unyielding.
From the top, the view stretched for miles—the Wall undulating over the hills, disappearing into the haze. Even with the crowds, there were quiet moments. Standing on the ramparts, the wind cutting across the landscape, I imagined the soldiers who once stood here, scanning the horizon for approaching threats. It was a structure meant to intimidate, to protect, and to endure. And centuries later, it still stood, doing exactly that.
Reflections: A Country Racing Ahead
Heading back to Beijing and eventually to the train bound for Shanghai, I couldn’t help but reflect on the stark contrasts of the journey.
China is expanding at an unprecedented pace—sometimes recklessly, sometimes brilliantly. Ghost cities and overbuilt districts stand alongside thriving metropolises. The high-speed rail network is a triumph of modern engineering, but its aggressive growth raises questions about long-term sustainability.
Meanwhile, in the U.S., the debate over rail infrastructure remains stuck in political deadlock. While China moves forward, America clings to outdated systems, choosing congestion and inefficiency over progress. The difference is clear—China sees high-speed rail as a necessity, while the U.S. still treats it as an afterthought.
Final Thoughts
Taso had shown us a version of China that we never could have navigated alone. He made the overwhelming feel accessible, the foreign feel familiar. His insight turned what could have been just a sightseeing trip into something deeper—a chance to see not just the landmarks, but the forces shaping them.
Traveling through China isn’t just about seeing famous places; it’s about witnessing a country in motion. And as the Great Wall stretched endlessly into the distance, I couldn’t help but wonder: Who else is willing to build for the future.
